Today the 9th November is Independence Day in Cambodia and I left the house relatively early,camera in hand to catch the parade and festivities.This is a big week in the Khmer calendar,as later this week is the three day water festival(Oum Tuk to those of you who speak the lingo)but more of that later.
This day marks 55 years since the French packed their bags and headed back to Paris,and the patriotic fervour in the air is palpable.The municipal government have tried to "beautify" the city streets and their is a definite increase in colour,cleanliness and the most elaborate and ornate portable loos I have ever seen.However,some things are not so good with the police clearing the streets of homeless people and sending them to what are called "re-education centres",a Stalinist term if ever I heard one.
There has also been a marked surge in the number of hawkers and vendors,and yesterday I was accosted by two very young,confident girls trying to sell me the usual assortment of bangles and fans."What is your name?" and "Where are you from?" were the predictable questions but when it was ascertained that I was from the UK,I received an incredibly impressive potted history lesson from 10 year old Nary.Here is a transcript:
"The population of the UK is 65 million,and the capital city is London.The prime minister is called Gordon Brown(pronounced Bruun)and the UK has many parks and green spaces.The biggest airport is called Heathrow."
Telling her that I was really impressed I then asked her if she learnt that at school."No I learn from tourists,and now I have told you that you must buy my bracelets for your wife"Incredible.......so brazen for one so young,but nevertheless very funny.
On my way to watch the parade I bumped into my Khmer friend Vuthy who insisted that he act as a guide.We proceeded to watch what was an incredibly colourful and long parade,which involved all the ministries being represented and reminded me an awful lot of the eastern bloc type parades you see on TV minus the military hardware.There was float after float all proudly proclaiming an aspect of Khmer society and the national anthem was sung heartily by those taking part.I must admit that I was quite impressed and even though I have a natural British suspicion of all things patriotic brought on by years of woolly liberalism I found all this fairly stirring.
Now I get ready for the water festival during which time up to 4 miilion people invade the city from all corners of the country and the main events are the boat races that happen on the Tonle Sap.The festival celebrates the end of the rainy season and the reversal in the flow of the Tonle Sap into the Mekong,a unique event which happens nowhere else in the world.I missed all this last year,and people who live in Phnom Penh often make a beeline for the coast or another country.I will stay however,and try to brave the crowds making sure that my pockets are empty(or they will be emptied for me!!).Wish me luck.